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| Troubleshooting - Emulation |
Section 6 |
General - using Winzip |
Troubleshooting
3100 on/off fix
This problem is caused by the new E338 software sent by BEV. It has to
do with mangling the voltage interaction between your AVR and IRD. There is
a fix using tape, but it is not recommended and only works for certain AVR's,
so we won't deal with that here.
Permanent fix:
Swap your 8515 with an 8515a...
Quick fix(s)
1a) Simply jump pins 10 and 20 on the AVR and power up IRD. You will get
a smartcard error, at which point, remove the jumper (you can use wire or paperclip)
and you should be viewing. NOTE: you will have to do this each time you power
of the IRD.

1b) This excerpt from Sattech.net outlines the jumper position for those with
square 44 pin Atmel chips on their AVR:
Author - unknown
"Atmel makes the 8515 in three pin configurations: AC, JC, and PC. These configs are in the part code printed on the chip such as AT90S8515 8JC. Diamond Dog quite aptly described the rectangular PC (DIP) config so the following is relevant just to the two square chips.
If you have a 3/4" (17mm) chip with a dot in the middle of the top edge, then you have a PLCC chip - JC pin config - and need to jumper pins 11 and 22 (PD0 and GND). If you have a 1/2" (12mm) chip with a dot in the upper left corner instead of the middle, then you have a TQFP chip - AC pin config - and need to jumper pins 5 and 16 (also PD0 and GND).
Pins are numbered
counterclockwise with the dot marking pin one. So for the JC config (dot in
the middle of th etop edge), pin 11 is the 5th pin down on the left and pin
22 is the 5th pin from the left along the bottom.
If you have an AC config, (dot in the upper left corner marking pin 1), you're
going to jumper pins 5 and 16, numbered ounterclockwise. Pin 5 is the 5th down
on the left and pin 16 is the 5th from the left along the bottom.
THE PHYSICAL PIN LOCATION on the 3/4" PLCC and 1/2" TQFP CHIPS ARE
THE SAME.
http://www.atmel.com/atmel/acrobat/0841s.pdf
On my PLCC, I made the jumper with a piece of stiff bell wire inserted it between the chip contact and the socket contact. Any wire thin enough to fit between the chip and socket and stiff enough to shove between the chip contacts and socket contacts will do. A switch sure makes it handy, but I just used two pieces of wire and simply held them together until the "card not inserted properly" message came up.
If you have the 1/2" TQFP chip with the AC array that's soldered down, then you'll have to solder your leads on very carefully or else be very creative.
On the socketed array (JC), if you jumpered the wrong pins, double check with jEEPers or something similar to make sure you didn't scramble your eggs. If jEEpers can see the chip but can't read it, re-Monty it. If it can't see the 8515, then very carefully pry your chip out by the corners and gently reshape the contacts in the socket that got mashed when you put the bell wire in. A regular sewing pin bent like a tiny fish hook lets you get at the bottom of the contacts and pull them a little.
I hope this helps someone."
2) Cut a piece
of paper or very thin cardboard slightly narrower and longer than your AVR.
Slide the paper into IRD with AVR to cover pins. Power up IRD, at smartcard
error, gently pull the paper out and you're all set.
3) Place a piece of tape over the contact as shown below. Make sure it is fairly
sticky so as not to come off inside IRD.

Longer term:
Use a small gauge wire as your jumper. From your favourite electronics store,
grab a small toggle switch. Cut your jumper and solder/tie one end each to each
of the connectors on the switch. Tie the other ends to pins 10 and 20. Now,
instead of pulling the jumper, simply flick the switch!
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| Troubleshooting - Emulation |
Section 6 |
General - using Winzip |